The frosts are here now, so it’s time to plant onions and garlic. Do not forget to observe crop rotation, because these crops can be returned to the current beds only after 3-4 years. Otherwise, the plants will get sick with gray or brown rot on the bottom.
I hope you have updated the garlic varieties as well. Before planting, remove the “shirt” from the teeth, check for spots and dents on them.
Some summer residents grow this culture from large bulbs. In the fall, they are planted quite densely on the garden bed, so that in the spring there will be single-toothed planting material.
So that the garlic does not shoot, choose cloves with a diameter of no more than 1 cm. Mulch the plantings with what you have: sawdust, peat, peat compost or humus. In the spring, remove the mulch and the plants will grow together. Just in no case do not cover the beds with a film.
We remove radishes, daikons, carrots and beets. For better preservation, carrots can be soaked in boiled milk and dried well. Or place in rows in boxes and sprinkle with dry sand, sawdust or sawdust. It is permissible to store root crops in bags (just not cellophane!) With an open neck with 5 cm.
We leave the cabbage in the beds until frost at minus 3 – 7 degrees. Then it would be good to fold the forks into a collar and keep them for a week at sub-zero temperatures in the garden, in an open greenhouse or on an open balcony. Then the heads of cabbage will pick up maximum sweetness.
We continue to update the garden with seedlings that are disease resistant and adapted to northern conditions. In this regard, Michurin varieties are good, pay attention to them.
For seedlings, we dig holes 60x60x60 or 80x80x80 cm. At the bottom we put rotted or semi-rotted manure, in each hole we throw a handful of combined fertilizer or 400 g of diamophoska. Everything is mixed well and poured. After we plant seedlings, we compact the soil and do not forget to place a stake 3–5 cm from the trunk. We tie a tree to it at the bottom and top of the trunk. The cover sheet will keep out rodents and don’t forget to throw a Storm tablet under each seedling.
We tie fruit and berry and ornamental shrubs in bundles and process 3 percent. Bordeaux liquid solution, like the whole garden. We spread double superphosphate, chloride or potassium sulfate under the roots.
During their growth, trees and shrubs acidify the soil. If horsetail, sorrel, green moss appear on it, these are indicators of acidic soil. This means that it is necessary to add lime or dolomite flour in the amount of at least 1 kg per 1 square meter.
Deoxidizer is not cheap, so apply it in stages – in spring, summer and autumn, treating at least 10 square meters. meters. This is essential. Also take out into the garden lumps of lime left over from whitewashing and crushed eggshells.
By spring, soil structure and fallen leaves left on beds or stacked in a compost pile will improve. They will turn to sludge.
After harvesting, dig up the soil in the garden and greenhouse. For future seedlings, stock up on soil from a clean compost pile where there are no tops of diseased plants.
Arrange the container, which is useful in the spring for sowing tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers. It is better to buy pots of peat and humus now, while they are not in season and are cheaper.
Cover the roses with boxes or bottomless plastic buckets. Fill the bushes with dry sawdust or humus, cover with foil. If roses, small bushes of terry lilacs or hydrangeas grow along the path, then place long boards on both sides and fill the space between them with dry sawdust. This is how you protect plants from freezing.
We put the vine in a high place on a board and cover it or make a trench and fill the vine with dry sawdust or humus and cover it with a film so that it is not torn by the wind.
Perennial honeysuckle is difficult to remove from a support because its woody stems are very fragile. But you can cover the vine on the support with a film. However, honeysuckle is hardy. If it does not overwinter, then in the spring you will have to cut off the frozen tops of the plant.
Lemongrass lianas and Cumberland black raspberry branches are best placed on top of the soil. We tie ordinary raspberries in bundles or put them on a wire. Do not get carried away with pruning remontant raspberries that give two crops a year. Leave it until spring – the snow will still break some of the branches.
Support blueberries and blueberry bushes and tie them into a bundle, like currant or gooseberry bushes. On warm days, continue planting your favorite varieties of perennial nodular primroses.
Valentina Kosenkova, agronomist.
This medium-late pumpkin variety produces 10 – 20 kg of fruit. They ripen in 112 – 138 days after sowing. Good for juicing, baking, stewing, as a pie filling. The harvest is well preserved. A plant with eyelashes reaches a length of up to seven meters.
The Belarusian variety in the middle of the season gives up to 250 – 320 kg of tubers per 1 fabric, but if the land is loose and fertile, you can collect 600 kg of potatoes. Its tubers are uniform, round, about 10 tubers of 80-100 g with yellow skin and white flesh are born under the bush. A trifle does not form. The harvest is preserved with 96%.
It takes about 25 days from germination to harvest. The root has an elongated cylindrical shape, pink color with a snow-white tip. Radishes of this variety have a great taste, tender and juicy flesh. Each root weighs from 15 to 19 g.
Dear readers! You can ask your questions
head of our section by calling 43-20-15 or by letter
by e-mail [email protected]